Devonshire Road Oyster Whistles in Tune
This Whistling Oyster has barely been cracked open but me and my neighbouring fishy friends just can't stay away. This brilliantly imaginative new harbour for Chiswick's abundant shoal of shellfish and wine lovers is sure to become the new pearl of Devonshire Road. Fishmonger by day and seafood and wine bar by night, it's the brainchild of partners Sasha Mantel and Rob Gillon – in cahoots with well-known local fishmonger John Robinson and his partner Bonnie; the latter duo remembered by hundreds of grateful customers from the days of covid lockdown when they so brilliantly fronted the fish shop in the Turnham Green Terrace. Remember that queue? An Oyster that also whistles is the dream of a new fish and wine emporium - right up there with the best and most important shops in fashionable Devonshire Road. It doesn't just sell fabulous fish, it doubles-up as a licensed seafood bar with seating indoors and out, selling a range of tasty treats alongside an amazing range of British wines.Unlike most fishmongers, the Whistling Oyster doesn't display its fresh fish in the window (that's a prime spot reserved for indoor eating). Cleverly they’ve placed their impressive fish counter towards the back of the shop. Styled and selected by John, it's expertly packed tight with a full range of British (mainly Cornish) fish and shellfish. Strategically placed elsewhere, I could see all the finest accoutrements to fish eating anyone could possibly want - plus carefully selected smoked fish and a small freezer. There's even a state-of-the-art whole salmon dryer (same technique as Macken's use to store their finest ribs of beef). But even if you're not a fan of fish, it's almost worth popping in for the bread alone, sourced from an independent bakery in Fulham. And they also deliver – free locally I believe.Then there's the seafood bar menu, backed up, or rather washed down, by a huge selection of British wines (inc bubbles) or English cider and beer and lager – just about whatever floats your boat. Of course some of it is pricey. But a glass of Winchcombe Downs 2019 Gloucester white is a snip at £6 a glass and there's many other similar choices with full bottles in the £25-£35 range. So, on our several visits so far I've had (not all at the same time) a dozen Jersey oysters which were simply amazing. But don't just take my word for it. Fellow diners and retired W4 food royalty John and Sally Southey, of Chiswick's Southey's Restaurant fame, were also “there for the Jersey's” - and John assured me that, in his view, these really are one of the finest. I also had some wonderful crab, a few langoustine, watched others enjoying a great plate of sardines on toast and tried out (swapped) a few other great oysters from different parts of the country including Cornwall. There's seats for 11 indoors and sixteen outdoors – Thursday to Sunday from 4.00pm to 10.00pm.Sorry to carp on, but this is surely the plaice to be. I'm hooked.
Sean Barton ● 733d35 Comments